In the last blog I outlined the methodology for preparing the annual beds. I will use this blog to describe each tool involved in that process.

Thatch Rake

The Thatch Rake has sharp knife-like tines on both sides of the head. The tops of the tines are curved, so if you set the rake down on its head it can rock like a cradle. The opposite side of the tines is almost straight across, but does have a slight curve to it. The straight tines are designed for typical raking and the flared sided can be used for removing debris and for scratching up the soil for reseeding.

The rake head is attached to the handle by one wing nut on each side of the head. The bolts on the head fit into a slot on the attaching piece. This allows us to easily adjust the head to an angle that is comfortable and powerful. We like to have the rake fully angled down in order grab and pull up large tufts of re-establishing grass. Once the head is adjusted properly you pull it through the lawn scraping up dead debris and dislodging lots the clumps of stubborn perennial grass. When you push back on the rake the self cleaning head deposits the pile of thatch in a row that we collect and transport off the seedbed to be composted.

Glaser Wheel Hoe

This tool is a Swiss design. An older model of the wheel hoe has been used at the Vancouver Energy Farm, but this design seems a bit sturdier as it powers through tough ground when we put our weight into it. This wheel hoe is strong, lightweight, and highly maneuverable. It performs the work of a hand hoe in a fraction of the time and can be fitted with other attachments including a three pronged cultivator and even a shallow furrower. The hoe is fitted with ash handles cut on a modified Planet Jr. pattern for a better handgrip and improved comfort. The basic unit includes a forged tool frame fitted with handles and a pneumatic, rubber-tired wheel-all fully adjustable for height, angle of handles, and attachments.

We have found that this tool can clear large swaths of turf and weeds; however, it looks like it will not be appropriate for weeding between intensively planted vegetables. Furthermore, it is important to keep the hoe sharp to achieve optimum performance. I gave the "blade" a good honing with a file so that I only need to touch it up with the file before using it. I have noticed that steel hoe attachment shows signs of wear after sharpening and use, and I think that it will eventually wear out. The design of the hoe attachment is simple and can be replaced with a strap of steel when it wears out.

Broad Fork

We use the Broad Fork to loosen the soil and deeply aerate it without damaging the soil structure or mixing the layers. The Broad Fork replaces the typical garden fork in this application because it can cover more ground in less time. This tool performs a similar (yet not identical) act of tilling/fluffing beds, yet it requires little effort. With this tool we can use our body weight instead of the back and arms. For instance, when the soil is compacted we stand on the base and rock the fork back and forth. Once the tines sink in you lean back on the handles and the soil loosens. This fork does not however perform the task of double digging.

The Broad Fork has five 10.5 inch tines and the farthest distance between tines is 20 inches. The steel base is 24" inches wide, and is attached to 48 inch ash handles. It is important to keep the tines sharp, but they do not dull very fast. The handles seem like the most fragile part of this tool and are probably the component that might someday have to be replaced.

Example of Heavy Sod That Needs to be Raked

Head of Thatch Rake

Using the Thatch Rake

Using the Glaser Wheel Hoe

Close-up of Glaser Wheel Hoe in Action

Broad Fork Sinking into the Soil

Using Weight on Broad Fork to Pry Soil