This is a quick blogcast that shows us washing our harvest for CSA members on "Harvest Tuesday". The mornings are getting warmer and warmer and we will have to wake up earlier in order to harvest without causing wilt to the lettuce. Plants like lettuce love the cool weather and harvesting them in the morning also improves the flavor.

Our process involves:

1. Harvest from the field while the morning temperatures are still cool
2. Place the harvest in the shade
3. Weigh the produce and record the data
4. Sprinkle the produce with water to promote evaporative cooling. (This is to ensure that the produce does not wilt)
5. Wash by placing produce in the Initial Rinse Tub, then transfer to the Final Rinse Tub, and finally place the produce in a milk crate.
6. Spin the milk crate to fling water off the rinsed produce.
7. Bag or basket vegetables for CSA members and restaurants.

Click here to view the blogcast related to processing the harvest.

In this blogcast I demonstrate a new method that I have been using to cut the sod in the sorghum section. Humans typically produce an average of one tenth horsepower (0.1Hp) for the duration of a 10 hour day. I have been experimenting with method in which I can potentially exert more force over a shorter distance and then have a few moments of physical recovery before I use the tool again. To do this I push the wheel hoe through sections of about 5-6 feet wide. It takes about 5-10 seconds to pass through this section, and then I take a couple of steps back (rest) and repeat the task. I think that this method allows me to cut with more force and potentially cover more ground then my old tactic of simply walking in a straight line, exerting force in difficult 8 inch wide by 66ft long strips.

Click here to watch the demonstration of this alternate methodology.

This blogcast finds Chris and Jason drilling out a broken bolt on the Glaser wheel hoe. The push is on to get the energy crop of Dale sorghum in the ground by Saturday, and there is not enough time to send the tool back to the manufacture. We will have to make the necessary repairs and keep moving if we are going to make sure the crop is in the ground in enough time to avoid an early frost in October. The thick roots and tall grass is really putting this tool to the test.

We visited the W.I.S.C (Willits Integrated Services Center) Garden this afternoon to harvest onions, beets, and faba beans. The community garden had a jump on the farm at Brookside because they had planted fall crops of onions and garlic. The care takers of the garden have asked us to harvest and distribute these crops in trade for overseeing the site while they attend a permaculture course. These fall sown crops are ready to come out of the ground and are a timely supplement to our spring sown produce.

Click here to get a look at the W.I.S.C. Community Garden and the great onions and garlic.

In a word…Yesss!! In an action….a jump for joy. It has rained and the reservoirs in Little Lake Valley have been topped off.

As was mentioned a couple of blogs back, a Stage One water ration had been declared in Willits due to low reservoir levels and unseasonably dry weather in December, January, and March. After attending a Willits City Council meeting in April, I found out that a prescribed amount of water needs to be released from the reservoir in order to protect native salmon. However, after the month of March, a greater degree of water can be retained in the reservoir to meet the needs of the Little Lake Valley during the dry summer months. In the last two weeks the weather station at the Willits Energy Farm has recorded 3.6 inches of rain at the site.

To be sure, just because reports have said that the reservoir is topped off does not mean that we can be foregoing our responsibility to conserve scarce water. However, it does slow the timeline that the city was using to decide whether to issue a Stage Two mandate that restricts ALL outside water usage.

Water scarcity is a serious issue in the Willits area, and in response, we developing an irrigation system that considers ways in which we will conserve water and still feed the plants appropriately. With the exception of the table grape and the orchard section we are using 3 overhead sprinklers to cover the main parcels that we have planted out (perennial section, potato section and cool season annuals). However, overhead watering of our crops is not the most efficient form of irrigation. The Rainbirds will suffice during the interim in which we are hooked to the municipal system; however, we want to investigate other watering options.

Today, I visited an irrigation store in Ukiah to pick-up a handful of Toro “Shrub” sprinklers that have unique watering patterns. One sprinkler, for instance, shoots water 4 feet forward and 15 feet in each direction laterally (like a rectangle). Another is rated at 12 feet and shoots in a quarter circle at a flat angle, while another sprinkler shoots 9 feet forward and 9 feet each direction laterally. These unique sprinkler heads may provide an effective alternative to transient and disposable drip lines and large scale overhead watering with Rainbirds. We will investigate whether the Toros will be valuable watering devices that conserve water by not watering unnecessary space and last a long time. On Monday, I plan to acquire the appropriate sprinkler stands and threaded schedule 80 pipes (at heights of 3, 6, and 12 inches) to experimentation with these unique patterns and to gauge the effectiveness of their coverage.

Current Overhead Watering Style Using Rainbirds

Various Toro Shrub Heads to be Tested

Sparetime Supply,
a local nursery and garden supply store, has continued to donate plants and materials to the evolving farm project at Brookside Elementary. In late February
and mid March, Sparetime donated seeds, water hoses, and fruit trees to the
project. These contributions have been quite generous and have gone toward
establishing the permanent infrastructure of the site. When combined with their
January donations, it is
clear that Sparetime participates in making Community Supported Agriculture a
reality.

I want to also mention that Chuck Mansell (the principal at
Brookside Elementary) and the Willits
Unified School
District pitched in some funds toward the purchase
of a basic tool set. This covered the cost for the toolbox, hammer, sockets,
screwdrivers, pliers, measuring tape, file, and razor knife. It is fun to have Chuck visit the site because he is excited to see the previously unused baseball field transforming into a mini-farm.

Another donor that wished to remain anonymous contributed eight,
6 Ft fence posts and 100 Ft of fencing. This will be most likely be used to
create a chicken run along
the far western fence line. The fencing will separate the chickens from the
annual section.

I want to express gratitude for the support. It is fun to work on a project that the community deems important and is willing to support with time, money, supplies, and words of encouragement. If you have not yet visited the Community Support section please check it out and get an idea of how many individuals and organizations are involved in this demonstration.

We have been growing starts of Kale and Lettuce in a
glasshouse for about 3 weeks. They will be ready for transplant sometime next
week. For those who might be planting Kale or Lettuce there is a chart below
that you might find useful. On that chart, *LFD=Last frost date and *FFD= First
frost date. For Willits, LFD is usually May 15 and FFD is usually October 15.

Kale (Brassica
oleracea var. acephela)

Family: Brassicaceae (Mustard Family)

Temperature:

• For
  germination: 45°F-95°F
• For
  growth: 60°F-65°F

--Soil and Water Needs--

pH: 6.0-7.0

Fertilizer: Heavy feeder, use compost.

Side Dressing: Apply when plants are about one-third grown.

Water: Heavy

--Measurements--

Planting Depth: ½”

Root Depth: 6”-12”

Height: 12”-18”

Breadth: 8”-12”

Space Between Plants:

• In
  beds: 15”-18”
• In
  rows: 18”-24”

Space Between Rows: 24”-46”

--Grow Biointensive Measurements--

Space Between Plants:

• In
  Beds: 15”

Maximum Number of Plants per 100 Square Feet: 84

--Threats and Interactions--

Pests: Aphid, cabbage looper, cabbage maggot, celery
leaftier, diamondback moth, flea beetle, harlequin bug, imported cabbage worm,
Mexican bean beetle, mites, thrips, weevil.

Diseases: Alternaria leaf spot, black leg, clubroot.

Allies: Uncertain: Chamomile, dill, garlic, mint,
nasturtium, rosemary, sage, tansy, (perhaps tomato).

Companions: Artichoke, beet, bush bean, celery, cucumber,
lettuce, onion, peas, potato, spinach.

Incompatibilities: Pole beans, strawberry, (perhaps tomato).

Planting:

First Seed-Starting Date:
(Plant every 10 days in case of poor germination)

Last Seed-Starting Date:

Harvest notes: Harvest younger leaves from the middle and
work your way up the stalk as it grows. Keep some of the leaves on the bottom
to feed growth at the top. You can also harvest the plant all at once by
cutting the stem near the bottom.

Storage Requirements: For fresh storage don’t wash the
leaves. For drying, cut the leaves into strips and steam for 2-5 minutes.
Spread on trays no more than ½” thick, and dry. If using an oven, set the
temperature below 145°F, check and turn every hour. Kale will store at 32°F at
95%-100% humidity for 2-3 weeks. At 32°F to 40°F and 80%-90% humidity it will
store for up to 10 months (with fair taste).

Sources:

Denckla, Tanya., The Gardener’s A-Z Guide to Growing
Organic Food., Storey Publishing © 2003., pp.94-95.

Jeavons, John., How to Grow More Vegetables* 7^th
Edition., Ten Speed Press © 2006., pp. 90-91.

Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)

Family: Compositae or Asterceae (Sunflower family)

Temperature:

• For
  germination: 40°F-80°F
• For
  growth: 60°F-65°F

--Soil and Water Needs--

pH: 6.0-7.5

Fertilizer: Heavy feeder.

Side Dressing: Every 2 weeks, apply balanced fertilizer or
foliar spray

Water: Low to medium, heavy in arid climates, water early in
the morning to minimize diseases

--Measurements--

Planting Depth: ¼”-½”

Root Depth: 18”-36”, with 5’ taproot

Height: 6”-12”

Breadth: 6”-12”

Space Between Plants:

• In
  Beds:
  • Head
    Lettuce: 10”-12”
  • Leaf
    Lettuce: 6”-8”
  • Romaine
    Lettuce: 10”
• In
  Rows:12”

Space Between Rows: 14”

--Grow Biointensive Measurements--

Space Between Plants:

• In
  Beds:
  • Head
    Lettuce: 12”
  • Leaf
    Lettuce: 8” in winter and 9” in spring-fall
  • Romaine
    Lettuce: N/A

Maximum Number of Plants per 100 Square Feet:

• Head
  Lettuce: 159
• Leaf
  Lettuce: 320 in winter and 248 in spring-fall
• Romaine
  Lettuce: N/A

--Threats and Interactions--

Pests: Aphid, beet leafhopper, cabbage looper, cutworm,
earwig, flea beetle, garden centipede, leaf miner, millipede, slug, snail

Diseases: Bacterial soft rot, botrytis rot, damping off,
downy mildew, fusarium wilt, lettuce drop, mosaic, pink rot, powdery mildew,
tip burn

Allies: Uncertain: Chive, garlic, radish

Companions: Beet (to head lettuce), all brassicas (except
broccoli), carrot, cucumber, onion family, pole lima bean, strawberry

Incompatibilities: None; some studies have shown lettuce to
be sensitive to plant residues of barley, broccoli, broad bean, vetch, wheat,
rye

Planting:

First Seed-Starting Date:
(Plant every 10 days in case of poor germination)

Last Seed-Starting Date:

Harvest notes:

For leaf lettuce, start picking the leaves when there are at
least five to six mature leaves of usable size. Usable size means about 2” long
for baby lettuce and 5”-6” long for more mature lettuce. Keep picking until a
seed stalk appears or the leaves become bitter. For head lettuce, when the head
feels firm and mature simply cut it off at the soil surface. Harvest all the
lettuce in early morning for the maximum carotene and best taste. Refrigerate
immediately.

Storage Requirements:

Lettuce does not store well for long periods and is best
eaten fresh. At 32°F-40°F at humidity of 80%-90% the storage life of lettuce is
1 month. At 32°F at 98%-100% humidity the storage life is 2-3 weeks.

Sources:

Denckla, Tanya., The Gardener’s A-Z Guide to Growing
Organic Food., Storey Publishing © 2003., pp.97-99.

Jeavons, John., How to Grow More Vegetables* 7^th
Edition., Ten Speed Press © 2006., pp. 90-91.

We started transplanting Peas mid Saturday and it has taken us until early Tuesday to finally finish planting all the starts. I want to thank Kristin Bradford for coming out and helping with the project of transplanting on Saturday and Monday. We are also thankful for Rachael Adair’s help on Monday and Tuesday. Sometimes I would look away to do something and when I turned around I would be amazed at how many plants Rachael had done.

We are planting out the Peas using Grow Biointensive methodology which focus on intensive planting. Four rows of peas are spaced 6 inches apart. The “in row” spacing is three inches. As a comparison and to highlight the intensity of the plant spacing I planted half a section in 6 inch “in-bed” spacing. The entire bed that borders the walk path is full of peas. The area near the path is a little over 160 sq feet. With more starts to transplant, we added another 66 sq feet of peas in our “soon to be” annual section.

While some people were working on the peas others were simultaneously planting out bare-root raspberries and thornless Boysen and Black berries. Two separate beds where made on the most north-east part of the site. Each bed is located five feet from the back fence line and is spaced a few feet from the vehicle access road.

31 bare-root Raspberries have been planted, totaling approximately 130 Sq feet. There are five known varieties of Raspberries including:

- 5-Willamette

- 4-Latham

- 5-Heritiage,

- 4-Amity,

- 4-Indian Summer,

- 8-un-marked raspberries

Likewise, 31 Boysen and Blackberries were put in about 130 Sq feet. Again there is a diverse mix of varieties including:

- 5-Thornless Evergreen Blackberry

- 5-Thornless Dirksen Blackberry

- 5-Thornless Boysenberry

- 5-Kiowa Blackberry

- 4-Black Butte Blackberry

- 4-Olallie Blackberry

- 3-Siskiyou Blackberry

I know this has been mentioned earlier, however, bordering the blackberries are five blueberry plants. They take up about 60 Sq feet and the variety includes:

- 2 Misty Southern Highbush

- 1 Blue Southern Highbush,

- 2 Ozark

Once this berry section starts producing it will be a wonderful addition to the farm. Juices and jams are clear uses, as well as the opportunity for the kids to harvest a healthy snack. The addition of fruit to the CSA boxes will no doubt be great extra for members.

Kristin Transplanting Peas

Rachael Working with a Group of Volunteers and Enjoying the Afternoon

Jason Planting Bare-Root Blackberries

Berry Section Almost Fully Planted Out

Around midnight Monday the sky was clear, stars were easy to see, and ice was beginning to form on the steps near the entrance of the house. On Tuesday I woke to find it snowing with an accumulation of a couple of inches already on the ground. Jason and I headed down to the farm site to take some pictures of the occasion. Our onsite weather station recorded 1.29 inches of precipitation in January and 10.39 inches (not counting the current snow) in February. The table below shows data related to the average rainfall for the Willits area.

Source: WILLITS 1 NE, MENDOCINO COUNTY data derived from NCDC Cooperative Stations. 27 complete years between 1960 and 1995.

With the snow we are back inside waiting for our next opportunity to put some time in at the farm site. Once there is a break in the weather we are looking to transplant the peas that were sown on the 7^th of February. Another farm priority is the construction of a covered composting station. I visited Mendo Mill to get a price check on materials and it looks like it will be fairly reasonable to build the covered area. Under the shelter we will have room for multiple compost piles, and we are looking to get some straw bales to insulate the early piles in the cooler weather.

The Community Support page has been updated. Take a look to see the growing number of volunteers, local businesses, and organizations aligned with the Brookside Farm project.

Pan of the Farm Site Looking Northwest

Main Shade Tree On-Site (A Large Madrone)

Tree Collards Standing Up to the Snow

Snow Covering the Weather Station

I would like to thank Jason Bradford for sharing the following chart with me. As you can see it outlines planting dates for various crops in Willits, California. Tools like these are very useful when trying to coordinate plantings. Check and see if you can find such a graph for your location. Perhaps local farmers have generated the charts for themselves. State or Regional University Extension Programs might also be able to provide such information.